Thierry – Chocolaterie Patisserie Café

November 15th, 2011

Location: 1059 Alberni Street, Vancouver, BC  View Google Map
Website: Click Here

The first macarons I ever had were at Fauchon, the legendary gourmet food purveyor in Paris.  This set an unfortunately high bar and as you can probably guess, I’ve never had anything quite compare – until I tried the macarons at Thierry.  My friendly waiter informed me that chef Theirry Busset was previously the pastry chef at West; his website also boasts tenures at Le Gavroche and Marco Pierro White (now closed), both venerable restaurants in London.  The ever acerbic Gordon Ramsay touted Thierry to be “one of the finest pastry chefs in the world.”   Judging from my macarons, he was right.  Their thin crusts gave way to airy meringues with just the right amount of bite, held together with a flavorful creamy filling.  Delicate but decadent, chewy and crunchy, sweet without being cloying, they took me straight back to Paris.  I tried the lemon (bright and sunny) and coffee (earthy and rich) flavours and both were excellent.  The apple tart was also a careful balance of sweet and tart with the right ratio of fruit to pastry.  Unfortunately, the sandwiches were less inspired.  The prosciutto with manchego and the primavera (goat’s cheese with roasted pepper, artichoke and black olives) weren’t particularly innovative, or seasoned. They are the arena of Executive Chef Todd Howard of CinCin Restaurant, Thierry’s sister venue.  Why is it so difficult to produce a sandwich as good as those widely available in nearly every train station in Europe?  Regardless, I’ll go back.  The dark wood panelling and rounded counters convey a contemporary feel while the classic Thonet chairs reference the old world charm of Parisian cafés.  I can’t wait to sample all the different flavours of hot chocolate as soon as the rain starts…(EL)


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